Mice are social animals who thrive in groups. It’s recommended to keep at least three mice in a group so that when one passes away, the two other mice still have each other’s company. Ideally, you’ll build a rolling group by adding a new mouse every six months or so, which means introductions are a skill you’ll use more than once.
Introducing a new mouse or new mice to your group typically isn’t difficult if you’re well-prepared, but there are some tricks to help the process go more smoothly. The process typically takes 4 to 6 weeks from first meeting to fully bonded. Rushing any stage is the most common reason introductions fail.
Below, we’ll let you know everything you need to know about pet mouse introductions, including what to look for at every stage so you know when it’s safe to move forward.
This guide only applies to pet fancy mice, not to other rodents. Every rodent reacts differently to meeting new group members, and some will react badly if you apply this method. For example, gerbils must be introduced using the split-cage method or they can fight and seriously injure one another. Pet rats also typically need additional steps added to this process for a safe introduction.
Jump ahead:- Before You Start
- What You’ll Need
- Intro Day
- Bonding Period
- 40-Gallon
- Permanent Enclosure
- Fully Bonded
- Troubleshooting
- FAQ
Before You Start
Introducing a new mouse or mice to your existing group may feel stressful, but it’s generally pretty easy and straightforward. Introducing mice is easier than integrating some other rodents such as gerbils because mice are so social and adaptive.
Still, introducing mice should be done cautiously and with careful attention. For that reason, you’ll want to schedule the start of your introduction on a day you have plenty of time to dedicate to the process.
If you’re adding a neutered male to a group of females, the process is the same as described below. Neutered males generally integrate well with female groups. For more on housing male mice, see our article on whether male mice can live alone.
Choosing the right mice
By knowing the dynamics of your existing mouse group well, you can choose a mouse or mice to add based on their personalities.
If you already have a dominant mouse or multiple dominant mice in the group, you may want to choose more submissive mice to add.
If you don’t have a clearly dominant mouse, it may be OK to choose a more dominant mouse as the new addition.
Quarantining new mice
Before introducing new mice to your group, quarantine the new mice for two weeks in separate airspace from your existing mice.
Quarantining new mice is important because you can detect any potential health problems that might get passed on to your other mice. If you notice fur loss, breathing issues, diarrhea, or any other signs of health problems, take the mouse or mice to the vet immediately. They’ll need to fully recover before introductions are made.
Keeping your mice separate for the first two weeks also allows you to bond with your new mouse or mice and learn about their personalities before going through introductions.
What You’ll Need
If you want to make sure you have everything you need ahead of time, here’s everything you’ll need for introducing your fancy mice:
- Neutral territory (optional): An open storage bin or similar container lined with a thin layer of bedding. Some owners like to let the mice meet here first for observation before moving them to the carrier.
- Small carrier or travel cage: A clean carrier with small bar spacing or a ventilated plastic container. This is where the initial bonding happens. I use one this size.
- 10-gallon tank: Your bonding enclosure for the first few days after the carrier.
- 40-gallon breeder tank (optional): An intermediate step if your permanent enclosure is larger than a 40-gallon. Prevents a big jump in enclosure size.
- Permanent enclosure: Only needed as a separate enclosure if your permanent enclosure is larger than a 40-gallon (for example, a Detolf or 75-gallon tank). Don’t put anything in it yet.
- Clean bedding: Aspen shavings or paper bedding will both work. You’ll need fresh bedding for each stage, plus you’ll transfer some used bedding between stages for scent continuity. For bedding recommendations, see our best bedding for mice guide.
- Two water bottles or bowls: Your mice will need to have access to at least two water sources so that they don’t prevent each other from drinking at any point.
- Plain food: You may be tempted to encourage your mice with special treats during this process, but it’s best not to provide “high-value” foods into the mix during introductions and initial bonding. Choose simple pellet food or a seed mix without fatty seeds to encourage sharing.
- Neutral hide: As part of this process, you’ll add in a hide. Make sure the hide is large enough for all of the mice to fit in together, as well as something that’s neutral (hasn’t been used by any of the mice previously).
- Small running saucer: Giving your mice an outlet to get out excess energy can help with bonding, especially when it’s something they can do together. I use a small running saucer for both this purpose and as a hide.
- Neutral enrichment items: You’ll also need some neutral climbing toys and chew toys to slowly add into the enclosure with your mice as you progress through the intermediate stages. This also includes a wheel.
For enclosure sizing help, see our guide on mouse cage size.
Mouse Introduction Process: Intro Day
Intro day covers the initial meeting and first few hours together, which involves several steps. Schedule this on a day you have plenty of time to dedicate to the process. All five steps below happen in one session.
There are two schools of thought when it comes to mouse intros: one where the mice go straight into a small carrier, and one where they meet in a larger neutral territory first. I have used both of these methods, and both of them have worked for different groups. If you try one and things aren’t going smoothly, you can switch and try the other after a short separation.
Similarly, I’ve included an optional 40-gallon tank step. This is only something you need to consider if you’re going to a larger permanent enclosure like a Detolf, and it’s not always necessary. You can choose to skip this step if you don’t think it’s necessary, or just spend longer in the 10-gallon.
If you run into any issues along the way during this process, see the troubleshooting section.
Step 1: Neutral territory meeting
Place a thin layer of bedding in your open storage bin, or clear off the surface you’re going to use. Add the single mouse or the smaller number of mice first. This can prevent the larger group from claiming the territory and defending it when the lone mouse or smaller number of mice is added. If you’re introducing two pairs, put the newest pair in first.
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Don’t leave the first mouse or group in the bin alone for long. Just a few minutes is long enough to establish their comfort in the environment and destabilize the larger or more established group upon their entry.
Now add in your second mouse or group of mice, one by one or all at once.
What to look for before moving on:
- Sniffing, chasing, squeaking, and humping are all normal. This is how mice establish who’s in charge
- Mice should be engaging with each other, not hiding in corners and refusing to interact
- No blood. If a bite draws blood, separate immediately and see the troubleshooting section
Spend about an hour here, or until the initial frenzy settles down.
Step 2: Move to a carrier
Set up a small, clean carrier (I use this one) with a thin layer of fresh bedding, two water sources, and scattered food. The carrier should be small enough that the mice can’t avoid each other, but large enough that they have room to eat and drink. Mine is 12 inches long by 7.5 inches wide by 8 inches high.
If you did the neutral territory meeting first, transfer all mice into the carrier now. If you’re starting here, place the new mice or smaller group in first, and give them a few minutes to settle before adding the established group or larger group.
The tight space forces the mice into close contact, and having food and water available means they can settle in for an extended bonding period without you needing to intervene.
If you want to play it safe, you can add the mice to an empty carrier with just bedding first, then add the water after about an hour, and the food after another 30 minutes. Observe them at each milestone.
What to look for:
- Sniffing, chasing, squeaking, and humping are normal, especially in the first hour.
- Mice should eventually settle down and begin eating, drinking, and resting near each other.
- No blood. If a bite draws blood, separate immediately and see the troubleshooting section.
Leave the mice in the carrier for 12 to 24 hours. Check in frequently and monitor for any signs of aggression.
What to look for before moving on:
- Minimal chasing or squeaking compared to the first few hours
- Mice sleeping together or at least near each other
- Eating and drinking normally
Step 3: Move to the 10-gallon tank
Once the mice have been calm in the carrier for 12 to 24 hours, transfer them to a clean 10-gallon tank. Bring some of the used bedding from the carrier for scent continuity. Set it up with just bedding, two water sources, and scattered food to start.
Over the next day or two, gradually add items one at a time: a hide, a saucer, a chew toy. If you add something and see a spike in aggression or resource guarding, remove it and wait before trying again.
What to look for:
- Mice continuing to settle in without major regression
- Items being shared or used without conflict
- If adding an item causes problems, remove it and give them more time
Bonding Period
Duration: a few days is typical, or longer if bonding is going slowly
Once your mice have food and water, plus (optionally) a hide, leave your mice in the 10-gallon tank. It may feel cruel to keep your mice in a small enclosure without many enrichment items, but this helps solidify their bonds without distractions.
Check in frequently throughout the day. Setting up a pet camera for overnight monitoring is helpful if you have one.
What to look for before moving on:
- All mice sleeping together in a pile. This is the single most important sign. If they’re consistently sleeping apart, they’re not ready.
- Mutual grooming. Mice grooming each other is a strong bonding signal.
- Reduced chasing and squeaking compared to intro day. Some is still normal, but the intensity should be noticeably lower.
- All mice eating and drinking normally.
- Mice sometimes run together on the saucer, if you’ve introduced one.
- No injuries.
It’s better to spend too long on this step than not long enough. Once your mice are peacefully all sleeping together, give them another day or two beyond that point before moving on. If you’re not seeing progress after a week, go back to the neutral territory and start over rather than waiting longer in the small enclosure.
40-Gallon
Duration: approximately 1 week
Transfer all mice to a clean 40-gallon breeder tank. Bring some of the used bedding from the 10-gallon to maintain scent continuity. Start with minimal items: two water sources, scattered food, one hide.
Each day, add one new item: a saucer or wheel, a chew toy, a tunnel, a climbing structure. If you add something and see a spike in aggression or territorial behavior, remove it and wait another day before trying again.
Gradually increase the bedding depth over the course of the week.
If your permanent enclosure is a 40-gallon or smaller, this is your final stage. Continue adding enrichment gradually over 1 to 2 weeks until the enclosure is fully furnished, then see Fully Bonded for what to look for.
What to look for before moving on:
- Mice are still sleeping together consistently, even with more space available.
- New items are being shared or used without conflict.
- Grooming and calm social behavior continue.
- No regression to intense chasing, cornering, or guarding.
If you see the group splitting into factions (some mice on one side, others on the other), slow down. Remove items, reduce enrichment if needed, and give them more time.
Permanent Enclosure
Duration: approximately 2 weeks of gradual enrichment
This stage only applies if your permanent enclosure is larger than a 40-gallon (for example, a Detolf, 75-gallon tank, or similar). If your permanent enclosure is a 40-gallon or smaller, the previous stage is your final stage.
Transfer your mice into their permanent enclosure with some used bedding for scent continuity. This can help maintain a sense of calm and regularity for the mice while incorporating each of their different scent markings into the new enclosure. Start with limited items: food, water, one or two hides, a wheel.
Then continue adding enrichment gradually over the next two weeks. A new item every day or two. More hides, climbing structures, deeper bedding, foraging opportunities.
You may choose to transfer some or all of the bedding from the intermediate enclosure into the permanent enclosure. This can help maintain a sense of calm and regularity for the mice while incorporating each of their different scent markings into the new enclosure.
What to look for:
- Bond holding steady as you add complexity. Mice still sleeping together.
- No mouse being consistently excluded from areas or resources.
- If adding a specific item triggers problems, remove it and try again later. Some items (especially enclosed tunnels or small hides) can trigger guarding in mice that are otherwise bonded.
For enclosure recommendations, see our best mouse cages guide.
Fully Bonded
Your mice are fully bonded when you can freely add almost any item to the enclosure without risking their bond. You’ll know you’re here when:
- All mice sleep together almost every day, even though they have multiple hide options. It’s normal for mice to have best friends within the group, and for those pairings to change; but you should see each mouse sleeping together with each other one regularly even if not all at once. For example, it shouldn’t always be the same splitting of two and two.
- You can add new toys, rearrange the enclosure, or do a full bedding change without any regression in behavior.
- Grooming is mutual and frequent.
- Hierarchy is established and stable. There will still be an alpha mouse, but the lower-ranking mice aren’t being bullied or excluded.
- You can take a mouse out for handling and return them without triggering conflict.
This typically takes 4 to 6 weeks from intro day, but every group is different. Some bond faster, some need longer.
Mouse Intro Troubleshooting
Not all mouse introductions go perfectly the first time around. Here are some behaviors you might notice and how to handle them if they come up.
Mice are chasing, squeaking, or humping
If you notice a lot of chasing, squeaking, and/or humping behavior, don’t take any action to separate your mice. This behavior is a normal and healthy part of the introduction process and helps your mice establish a new hierarchy.
Still, it’s a good idea to take note of who is exhibiting the most dominant behaviors. This is likely your alpha mouse. As long as there aren’t multiple mice vying for the top position, having a dominant mouse is normal.
While this dominant behavior is going on, stay at your current stage of the process, and don’t move on until it resolves. For example, if your mice are exhibiting these behaviors in their bonding enclosure, wait until there have been no dominance behaviors for a couple of days before moving on.
Mice are excessively grooming each other
Another normal behavior is grooming. You’ll probably notice your mice grooming each other quite a bit throughout the bonding process. This is another way to establish the hierarchy and build relationships with one another.
As long as your mice aren’t causing fur loss due to excessive grooming, you should allow this behavior to continue as a good sign of bonding.
If fur loss is occurring, you may choose to slow down the process to decrease the level of stress your mice are experiencing as part of introductions.
Mice are isolating themselves
At times, you’ll likely see your mice separating off into pairs or individually. This is normal and healthy. Your mice are going through a big change right now, and they can get overstimulated.
If you are adding a single mouse to a larger group, especially, they’ll likely need some time to themselves to regroup and get some quality rest.
If mice are consistently sleeping apart over multiple days without ever coming together to sleep, though, that’s a problem. Remove items that allow them to isolate (extra hides, tunnels with dead ends) and give them more time before adding more space or enrichment.
Mice have drawn blood
If one of your mice draws blood by biting one of the other mice, you’ll need to separate them immediately. Once blood has been drawn, the situation is very dangerous for all of the mice.
In this scenario, it’s important to identify who the aggressor is. You should only remove this mouse from the group, rather than removing the victim mouse.
Keep this mouse separated from the group for a day, and then return all of the mice to the neutral territory to try again from the beginning.
Some people have found success with marking all of the mice with vanilla extract on their rumps to help disguise their scents if you run into this issue.
If introductions fail multiple times, you may need to split your group up into smaller groups or pairs that get along together.
Regression after moving to a larger enclosure
If mice were bonded in a smaller enclosure but start fighting or splitting up after moving to a larger one, move them back to the smaller enclosure immediately. They weren’t ready for the jump. Give them more time, then try again.
This is the most common issue in the intermediate stages. The solution is always to go back a step, not to push forward.
FAQ
How long does it take to introduce mice?
The full process from first meeting to fully bonded typically takes 4 to 6 weeks. Intro day itself takes 4 to 5 hours. The bonding period in the small enclosure takes about a week, and each intermediate stage takes about a week. Don’t rush it.
Can you put new mice together right away?
No. Mice need to be quarantined for two weeks first to check for health issues, and then introduced gradually using the process above. Dropping a new mouse into an existing group’s enclosure without a proper introduction will almost certainly result in fighting.
What if my mice keep fighting during introductions?
Some chasing and squeaking is normal. If blood is drawn, separate immediately, wait a day, and restart from the neutral territory. If it keeps happening, try masking scents with vanilla extract. If introductions fail repeatedly, the mice may not be compatible.
Can I introduce a male mouse to females?
Yes, if the male is neutered. Neutered males generally integrate well with female groups. The introduction process is the same. Do not house an unneutered male with females unless you want pups. See our article on whether male mice can live alone.
How many mice should I introduce at once?
One or two new mice at a time is easiest. Adding a large number of new mice to an existing group creates more complex dynamics and more potential for conflict.
Do I need an intermediate enclosure?
If your permanent enclosure is a 40-gallon or smaller, you can go from the 10-gallon bonding enclosure straight to your permanent enclosure. If your permanent enclosure is larger than a 40-gallon, we recommend using a 40-gallon as an intermediate step. Jumping from a 10-gallon bonding tank to a Detolf or similar large enclosure is a big change, and the extra space can cause mice to split up before their bond is solid.
Successful Mouse Ownership and Introductions
Being able to successfully introduce mice is an important part of mouse ownership. Because your group of mice is always evolving, with mice passing away and new mice coming in, this is a skill that you’ll want to have in your toolbox.
While mouse introductions can be stressful, they can also be fun and endlessly interesting to watch. Observing the dynamics of a group of mice is one of the best parts of owning these animals, and introducing new mice to the group only makes it that much more interesting, as long as things go well.
For the full picture of mouse care, see our fancy mouse care guide.
(I apologize for the long post)
Hello! So, I recently got a female mouse. She came with two others, Buttercup, and Oreo. Her name is Wilma. My siblings got Buttercup and Oreo and kept them in a cage together. This left Wilma alone. I knew that mice need friends to live happily, so I got a third mouse, named Betty (Taylor Swift reference) Betty was all white with red eyes, while Wilma and the other two separate mice were white with colors on them and black eyes. So I got a 20 gallon tank to put WIlma and Betty in together and all new toys and bedding. I started out by putting bedding down, a wheel and a water bottle. I put them both in. (Now I know that you’re supposed to go from small bin and such like this article suggests, but neither mouse is tame, and particularly Wilma is extremely skittish. She is incredible at jumping and it was more stressful and risky to keep moving them, so I chose to use the tank as a neutral territory.) So at first, they didn’t realize there was another mouse with them, but once they realized they were sniffing, and exploring each other. There were multiple scuffles, with lots of squeaks, none that drew blood and all resolved themselves within seconds, which I knew was normal. Every time Betty ran and Wilma chased. Eventually after about 2 hours, they were ok and dug tunnels together under the bedding and everything. So I thought all was good, I added the food, and no fights. Anyways, the next morning, I added their toys, and another hide. After exploring that, they went to bed in their tunnels together. That night, there were many fights. Betty would be minding her own business, and Wilma would go up, sniff all over her face and genitals, then start attacking her. She wouldn’t stop, and I had to separate them multiple times, as Wilma would attack after Betty ran away. I didn’t sleep, because every time I would be drifting off, they would start fighting. A few times, I found Wilma standing over Betty, who was on her back, with her belly exposed and her eyes closed. Finally, I just wanted my sleep and I wanted these mice to quit fighting. So I put Wilma in the small transport carrier with some bedding. I went to bed and in the morning, I decided to put Wilma back with Buttercup and Oreo. I got the second carrier, cleaned it, put minimal bedding in, and plopped the three back in. Pretty soon, after trying to escape and failing, they were snuggling and grooming themselves comfortably together. They recognized each other. We cleaned out the other cage, and put the three in together, no harm done, all comfortable and good with each other. Now, Betty is alone in the 20 gallon tank, but I don’t know if I want to risk getting another mouse, for her. I’m worried that we will have a similar outcome, and I will have yet another mouse to figure out. I know female mice should not be alone, but I just don’t know what to do. Can anyone help me?
Hello! Thanks for explaining your situation in such great detail — that helps! It sounds like Wilma, Buttercup, and Oreo are bonded quite well as a trio, and keeping them together is probably best for their welfare. Would it be possible to introduce Betty to the other three, using a very slow process as outlined in this article? You would need to introduce the three on neutral territory, then observe for several hours before moving them to a small temporary cage together. They should stay in a relatively empty carrier for upwards of a week before upgrading. You can put a wheel or saucer in for short periods, but remove it when you’re not able to supervise. Otherwise, they should just have a layer of bedding and some basic food, plus water. It feels mean to leave them in such a small, boring enclosure for so long, but it’s usually necessary for more temperamental mice. If you are wanting two separate mouse colonies, you could first introduce Betty to the trio, and then wait a couple of months to see who bonds up best. If Betty becomes best friends with Buttercup at that point, for example, she and Buttercup could be separated into their own enclosure. However, I wouldn’t recommend this because they’ll form bonds as a group, and dividing the group is stressful for everyone. So my first choice would be to try for a single colony of four. Otherwise, you can try adopting a new mouse and take the slowest, most cautious approach to the introduction as possible. Female mice are usually willing to bond with a new partner if approached correctly. Whether you introduce Betty to the group of three or adopt a new mouse to bond with Betty, slow and gradual is the best policy. Again, they shouldn’t have anything they could possibly fight over, including excess space, for at least a week. I hope that helps! Feel free to circle back here with an update on what you decide or if you have more questions.
– Sarah
Thank you so much! This helps a lot! I think I will most likely get another mouse to bond with Betty, though I will keep other options in mind. How long do you think I can wait before getting a second mouse? I would really like to bond with Betty before getting another mouse, because I feel that would make the process less stressful, as she won’t be scared of me, as well as the whole bonding thing going on. She is already pretty bold, she doesn’t run and hide if I reach into the enclosure, only if I move towards her. Do you think that would be ok or helpful? Or should I get another mouse as soon as possible and start bonding them together?
You’re very welcome — I’m glad I’ve been able to help! I personally would try to bond her with another mouse sooner rather than later. If you can, try to adopt a more confident female who can sort of show Betty that interacting with you is safe. Having a friend on her side might also calm her down. How long has it been since trying her with Wilma? I would give Betty a couple of weeks on her own to feel safe in her environment, and then start a slow introduction process. I think that feeling like she has a safe, stable home is more important than bonding with you, specifically. She might be a mouse that takes a long time to come around to you, so waiting until she warms up to you might mean waiting a long time. You can even start the intro process by placing their separate enclosures near each other so that they can get used to each other’s smells for a week or so.
Ok, so bonding her with Wilma was the last two days. I will wait a couple of weeks and let her get used to her new environment that is now safe, then start a *extremely* slow bonding process.
Does it matter that she is in a tank? If the second mouse was put into another tank I own, and set next to Betty’s tank, would it matter? Would they be able to smell each other?
I am so glad I found this website though! I’ve been at my wits end, searching the internet for some help!
That sounds like a good plan to me! Yes, they will still be able to smell each other if one or both of them are in glass tanks. I’m so glad I could help, and I wish Betty the best of luck! I have had introductions that took only one day and those that took a month, so it’s very variable, but it sounds like Betty does need a slower process 🙂
Hi,
So I have 4 girls (Pip, Nibbles, Pebbles & Oreo) who I got August 23. I got another 1 (Luna) and these bonded immediately (put vanilla essence on their rump) & are still happily together. Over the Xmas, I got another 2, Mango & Marshmallow. Unfortunately Marshmallow died due to colic the vet said so Mango is now alone. I tried introducing her to the 5 originals but Pip, my alpha female took a real dislike to Mango, actively seeking her out & attacking her (Mango is half her size). I removed Pip for a while & the others all seemed to get along with Mango but when I put Pip back in she immediately started seeking her out again. Pip got so stressed that she then started attacking her sisters, which she’s never done before & it all got a bit crazy with squeaking & fighting going on, although luckily no blood drawn. Mango is now back in her own enclosure & appears happy enough & we get her out twice a day & give her lots of attention but I’m worried she’ll get lonely. Over the new year we adopted another two, Smokey & Dotty, who are petrified & will take some time to bond I think unlike the others. I was thinking about trying Mango with those two, but again she’s half the size. Smokey & Dotty are 14wks but have know idea about Mango. Should I wait until Smokey & Dotty are tame enough or just go for it? I did the whole neutral terrority, minimal hides then slowly introducing with the original 5 & it worked perfectly whereas this time it didn’t.
Thank you.
Hello! First of all, I love your names. I have a mouse named Pippin (a boy), and a gerbil named Mango!
It sounds like you’re taking the right steps and the proper precautions and being very careful with your mice.
Question: Do you want to join them all together into a single colony, or are you thinking of keeping them in two separate colonies?
It sounds like Pip is definitely your alpha, and I know first-hand that the squeaks and tussles can be very disturbing to watch/listen to. But some of that is normal and will always happen, even with successfully bonded mice. As long as the alpha does not prevent the smaller mouse/mice from eating or accessing the water, and neither are showing injuries or excessive stress behaviors, I wouldn’t separate them. Instead, I would put all of the mice you want to bond together in a small carrier (since you have so many, I would try a small bin cage. I have used a 27-quart bin cage for eight mice), with no toys or anything other than plain food and water, plus a thin layer of bedding. I would leave them this way for a week, and then slowly work up to a larger enclosure, still with no toys or hides. If any stress behaviors or excessive fighting happens (excessive fighting would be like if Pip is constantly chasing Mango around without letting up, and they’re going into “balls of death”), take them back to the small enclosure and give them more time. It’s a very slow process, and again, it feels cruel, but it isn’t.
Now if you want to introduce Mango just to Smokey and Dotty, which I think is a good idea to start, I would do this same method for them. I would just go for it rather than waiting until they’re tame. Once those three are bonded, you could try blending your two colonies using the same method or keep them separate.
Some mice definitely take to bonding more easily than others. I found with my youngish girls, it was a little more difficult. But they eventually establish their hierarchy and settle into it. My smallest mouse right now, Sophie, is constantly being picked on by my alpha, but she’s still allowed to eat, drink, and cuddle with the others (as long as Lydia my alpha isn’t “using” them). It’s sad to see, but it’s healthy mouse behavior. There always has to be a low mouse on the totem pole.
I hope that helps!
Just to clarify because it was kind of confusing — yes, I would try bonding Mango with Smokey and Dotty right away; then bond them all together later on, if you want a single colony.